Carpenter Ants Control

Pharaoh Ants

Appearance

Pharaoh Ants are small, about 1/16-inch long. They colored light yellow to red, with black markings on the abdomen. Pharoah Ants look similar to Thief Ants, but Pharoah Ants have three segments in the antennal club. Since they are so tiny, they can travel and trail to many places.

Diet

Pharoah Ants will feed a wide range of foods; they feed on proteins, sweets and fats. They can feed on both dead and live insects. If choosing baits, consider their complete dietary needs, sweets, proteins and grease based baits. Below is our recommended baits for protein/grease and sugar needs.

Reproduction

Pharaoh Ants grow from egg to adult in about 45 days. The queens live as long as 39 weeks and can lay about 400 eggs. Workers only live up to 10 weeks.

Nests and Trails

Pharaoh Ants, being tiny, can be found in diverse places. Inside, they like to nest in warm areas. Their nests are usually well hidden, and the can forage far away from the nest with trails marked by trail pheromones. Pharoah Ants can be persistent, with large colonies

Outside, Pharaoh ants may nest in shaded areas or under debris. In the northern climates, these ants can not survive year-round outside.Indoors they prefer to nest in recessed areas like wall voids, under some appliances, in wall outlets, and under carpets for protection. If their colonies are disturbed or the colony becomes too large, they may move.

Ant control treatments

Ants are among the most difficult pests to control. With their complicated colony structure, ever changing foraging behaviour and of course large populations, successful ant control is a challenge even for the experts. Here at Ethical Building and Pest services our experience combined with a range of specialist ant products allows us to get on top of even the most persistent ant problem.

What ant control treatments do we provide?

standard pest control treatments will stop ants getting into the house, but if you have a major problem, to get lasting control of ants it is important to kill the queen (or queens) in the nest. Without the Queen laying eggs the nest cannot recover from a treatment. But with nests hard to find and some species having many nests in a colony, control can be difficult. We use a range of ant baits to eliminate nests. Ant baits consist of attractive ant food and a slow acting insecticide. The ants take the bait back to the nest and feed it to their nest mates (including the queen) and the colony is doomed. Baiting can take between a couple of days to 2 weeks to eliminate the nest, but it provides complete control.

Internal ant control treatments

internal ant treatments are designed to get rid of ants that are causing a nuisance inside the house. Many ants commonly nest in the house – ants love wall voids and roof insulation! We spend time to identify the species and locate the nest so we can use the most effective treatment. Typically this will include the use of baits inside and a perimeter spray outside the home.

Outdoor ant control treatments

Ants around the perimeter of the home have the potential to come inside, but more commonly they cause problems in outdoor entertaining areas or through undermining pavers. Control is achieved through a combination of sprays, baits and insecticide “sands”.

Lawn ant control treatments

Biting ants in the lawn can bit a nuisance (and painful!), especially if you have children wanted to play outside. We can use a range of products (mainly baits) to get rid of ants from your lawn allowing children and pets to use the lawn safely.

Ant Exterminators, Control & Removal

The end of winter is a cause to celebrate: the return of warm weather, the anticipation of spring and summer. But when spring and summer arrive, so can hordes of ants. Hundreds or thousands of them can literally appear overnight.

The following ant species is found living:

Carpenter Ants do not eat wood; prefer to nest and excavate water-damaged wood.

Field Ants build large mounds and can be confused with carpenter ants.

Ants emit a rotten coconut smell and infest kitchens and pantries.

Pavement Ants nest under flat stones, sidewalks, and concrete slabs outdoors.

Pharaoh Ants prefer nesting indoors, especially in commercial buildings with artificial heating.

Ants are one of the most common pests in and around homes in the Midwest. Ants have a wide variety of nesting habits and food preferences. Some ants build nests in soil, producing characteristic mounds, while others nest in homes behind moldings, baseboards, countertops, and similar areas. Unlike most ants, carpenter ants are wood-destroying pests and nest in decaying or moisture-damaged wood.

Many ants enter homes from outdoor nests as they forage for food. To locate a nest, follow the trail of ants. You can encourage foraging by setting out attractive food, like a dab of honey or jam on a stiff piece of paper. Ants take regular routes between their nest and the food source by establishing a chemical (pheromone) trail. You can locate the nest by watching where the ants go; for some ants, such as carpenter ants, this works best at night. If the nest is discovered, it can be treated or removed (in the case of rotted wood).

GET RID OF ANTS WITH A PROFESSIONAL ANT CONTROL SERVICE

Can you get rid of ants? Outdoor nests can be very difficult to eliminate without chemicals. Using water to flood nests is usually not effective. Use of gasoline also is ineffective, dangerous, and causes environmental pollution. Repeated drenching of a nest with an insecticidal soap solution is sometimes effective, forcing an ant colony to relocate. Remember: in order to relocate an ant colony, you must kill or relocate the queen (or queens).

Do It Yourself Pest Control

Our website is dedicated to providing DIYers with the information you need to do your own pest control. We provide information on insect identification, insect control instructions, rodent identification, rodent control measures, professional equipment, and information about professional strength insecticides and herbicides.

Can’t find the answer to your pest control question? We employee expertly trained pest control technicians to advise you.

How can I get rid of ants?

Ants are a social insect that lives in colonies. Ant control treatment plans should include killing the entire colony. Just spraying an ant with a typical ant spray, particularly a repellent spray will only kill a few at best and scatter the colony.

Ants may enter your house foraging for food or seek shelter. Understanding the behavior of ants will help you with the recommended ant control procedures outlined here. Ants enter through the smallest openings, foraging for water or food. They are in search of either sweet based food or protein/grease based foods. Once the ants find a food source, they will leave a pheromone trail for other ants to follow.

Do I have Ants or Termites?

Many people can’t tell the difference between ants and termites.

Can House Ants Harm Me?

One of the most common pests that homeowners have to battle is ants. As you may know, there are several types of ants that create colonies and make their presence known within kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoors on your sidewalk, driveway, and yard. While many people can live with ants and accept their presence (as long as they are not near a food source), once they begin invading pantries and crawling on food, ants become a real concern. This begs the question: Can I eat food touched by ants? The five-second rule should not even be considered if ants have touched your food. Sharing a snack with ants can have unexpected consequences no matter how innocent the act can sound.

Why do I have ants?

Most ants create colonies where they can thrive which means they are constantly in search of a food source for survival, which can lead them into your home. A kitchen is a perfect area for ants to infest with the potential for crumbs, dog food left in bowls, penetrable food packaging, and food such as fruit left out on tables and counter tops. No one wants to find pests in their home, but it can happen to virtually any homeowner.

Ants typically live outside, sending scout ants away from the colony to search for food. These explorers are usually the ants that you find in your drain, on the floor, and around food items. Human food is also appealing to ants. Once the scout finds a food source, they signal other ants to follow his trail and continue to take food and bring it back to the colony. The number of ants following this same trail grows as their food source remains available.

Pavement ants are small, black or brown ants that create small hills of dirt or sand in the areas between slabs in the sidewalk or your driveway. These ants are relatively harmless but can make their way into your home if they find an easy entry point. Pavement ants do not cause structural damage, but some clients do not like their presence on their property.

“Sugar ant” is a general name for ants that are attracted to sugary foods. If you see a sugar ant, you can be seeing Pharoah ants, acrobat ants, or odorous house ants, being the most common. Odorous house ants are a little bit less than a ¼ inch in size and dark brown or black. Their most distinct feature is the coconut or pine odor they give off when crushed. Sugar ants go after sweets in your pantry, especially when the packaging is penetrable such as cereal boxes.

Keeping Rear Fanged Snake As Pets

Benefits of Having Snakes Around

It may not seem like snakes would be beneficial, but they can help keep rodent populations down. A single small snake can eat 3-4 mice at a time, and larger ones can go after rats. They also eat moles, voles, insects and some can even go after fish. In other areas of the country, snakes will eat animals like rabbits, nutria and other rodents that may be destructive to homes and crops.

Natural Snake Repellent Ideas

There are many natural snake repellent ideas that allow you to get rid of snakes without harming them.

Naphthalene

One of the most common snake repellents you’ll find is naphthalene. It is found in products like Snake-A-Way. You can go a much cheaper route and use mothballs, as this is the main component in them. I toss a few under the porch to keep the snakes from hanging out under there. Be aware that the scent of naphthalene is very pungent and can linger for weeks and even months.

Plant Lemongrass

It’s not known exactly how lemongrass repels snakes, but it does. Plant some around the perimeter of your home or garage as a snake repellent. Lemongrass bunches can get really large, so you’ll want to keep an eye on it.

Plant Wormwood

Like lemongrass, wormwood (from the genus Artemisia) can help keep snakes away. Keep an eye on this plant too, as it can spread rapidly.

Keep Chickens

Snakes will sometimes try to get into chicken coops for the eggs. Chickens, as well as guinea hens and turkeys, will attack and kill snakes that get into the coop. Pigs will attack snakes too.

Plant Roses

Snakes will try to get into birdhouses for the eggs too. They seem like bluebird houses the best, maybe because they’re on a post. I plant rose bushes at the bottom of the post and wind the stems around the post. And they make for a great snake repellent. No more snakes in the bluebird house!

Essential Oils

Cinnamon, clove, and cedarwood essential oils will all repel snakes. (Find them all here.) It’s thought that snakes think the oils will melt the scales, so they stay away from them. True or not, they work to keep snakes at bay.

What works to keep snakes away?

Keep food, water, and shelter opportunities to a minimum. View your property as habitat to be exploited by local wildlife. The fewer resources exist for animals, the lower the chances are of having a surprise rattlesnake encounter.

A few of the big ones:

  1. Rodent control – rattlesnakes eat rodents, so having rodents coming and going from your property will bring them in.
  2. Eliminate cool and moist areas, like the leaky hose or patch of lawn that nobody really uses.
  3. Clean up dog poop. This can attract rodents and the rattlesnakes that look for them.
  4. Rattlesnake Fencing to physically keep them out.
  5. Keep a generally tidy yard, and eliminate any opportunity for a snake to hide.

When Do Snakes Come Out?

Snakes are more commonly encountered when temperatures average between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit; usually during the spring and throughout the summer. They are most active in early morning and late afternoon, as summer temperatures are often too hot for them to be out in during the hottest times of day. Snake activity will pick back up again in late summer and early fall before they go into hibernation or brumation. Brumation is more common in southern states where the climate is warmer and snow is less likely. Snakes don’t actually sleep in brumation but rather their bodies adjust to the lower temperatures, slowing down their metabolism, and making them less active. On warm winter days, brumating snakes will sometimes come out to bask in the sunshine, often surprising unsuspecting people with their presence.

While calling a professional pest control company is a guaranteed and safe way to tackle a snake problem, there are also some home remedies you can try to repel snakes. Home remedies to keep snakes away offer several benefits including:

  • Availability: Most home remedies to keep snakes away contain ingredients or methods that are readily available and easy to obtain. The guidelines for their use are also easily found on the internet.
  • Affordability: Most home remedies to keep snakes away are significantly cheaper compared to the cost of professional products and services on the market.
  • Ease of Use: Most home remedies to keep snakes away are easy to make or implement.
  • Safety: Most home remedies to keep snakes away are non-toxic to humans and pets compared to professional products on the market.

How to chase a snake away

If you spot a snake you suspect could be venomous, make sure to call animal control immediately. But if you know it’s a non-venomous snake and you just wish it would go away, chasing it off can be as easy as reaching for the hose. Spray the snake until he slithers away, hopefully before you get the creeps.

DIY snake repellent

If snakes seem to always find their way into your yard, keep them away with ammonia. Snakes hate the smell and won’t come near it. Soak rags in ammonia and place them in unsealed plastic bags. Leave the plastic bags where you usually see the snakes, and they won’t come back again.

Keeping snakes away from your pool

To keep snakes and even bugs like flies away from your pool, pour white vinegar around the perimeter. Snakes can absorb liquids through their skin, and won’t slither over the vinegar. Meanwhile, it’s same for kids and pets!

6 MUST-KNOW FACTS ABOUT SNAKES — READ TO STAY SAFE!

During spring and fall, temperatures are perfect for snakes to be out and about during the day. Not too cold, not too hot, just right for startling unsuspecting gardeners who are also outside taking advantage of the pleasant weather. During the summer, you need to watch out for snakes more in the early morning and at night, but they’re likely to be hidden away someplace dark and cool during the heat of the day.

While most snakes are nonpoisonous and tend to avoid contact with people when given the chance, they can still give quite a scare. The best way to avoid trouble with snakes is to understand their habits and how to avoid close contact with them.

Follow these tips:

1. Avoid Snake Habitat: In general, snakes hang out in damp, cool, protected areas. Watch out for them around rocky streams, wooded areas, retaining walls, garages, or anyplace around your house where there might be cave like conditions. Keep debris and wood piles far away from your house, and screen off underneath porches and crawl spaces to keep snakes out.

2. Watering Attracts Snakes: If you keep your lawn and garden well irrigated, you’re more likely to attract frogs, lizards, birds, and rodents which attract snakes. Well-watered, mulched areas (such as shrub beds and vegetable gardens) also offer cool shelter for snakes in summer, so be careful when walking or working in these areas.

3. Control Rodents: Snakes eat rodents, small reptiles, and birds. To minimize snakes around your house, keep bird feeders and nesting boxes away from the house, and work to reduce the rodent population.

4. Know Where to Find Snakes: On hot days especially, watch out for snakes in shady, cool areas – such as under your car or beneath piles of wood or debris. On cold days, expect to find snakes warming themselves in the sun, on a warm rock, or even a driveway or car engine. On perfect spring and fall days, keep an eye out most anywhere!

5. Understand Snake Temperament: Snakes are rather sluggish in early spring when they first come out of hibernation, and in late fall when they’re getting ready to sleep again. During these times, they may be too inactive to move out of the way or warn you before striking. During warmer months snakes are more active and fast-moving, so you may get more warning before they strike, but they can also be more energetic and aggressive.

6. Lift Carefully: When lifting something off the ground that could have a snake underneath, use a pole, and lift it toward you, so that the object will be between you and the snake. If you lift it away from you, the snake – if there is one – is more likely to run over your foot!

How To Get Rid Of A Racoon

How to keep raccoons away from your home

If you know what kind of damage raccoons can cause, it’s no surprise you don’t want them hanging around. It’s not limited to a tipped over trash can from time to time. Female raccoons in search of a nesting site may rip off shingles, fascia boards or rooftop ventilators to get into your attic. Once they are inside, they will tear up insulation, go to the bathroom and bring with them a host of parasites. Then again, they might avoid the attic all together and make themselves at home in your chimney, crawl space or under your deck or porch. And of course, they’ll want a snack which is easy to access from a nearby garden, decorative fish pond, pet food bowl or trash can.

How to determine the size of your problem

Raccoons are nocturnal, so they can be hard to detect. It’s especially important to pay attention to the clues they leave behind and to the frequency and amount in which they are left behind. Here are some things to look for:

  • Evidence of feeding — tipped over trash cans, damage to your garden or fish pond, a spilled or emptied pet food bowl, knocked over bird feeders, a disturbed compost pile.
  • Tracks
  • Droppings

In addition to the evidence they leave behind, you may also able to hear them visiting before you ever see them. No matter what alerts you, once you’re aware you have raccoons hanging around your house, it’s best to try to get rid of them as soon as possible.

UTILIZE REPELLENTS TO GET RID OF RACCOONS

Homemade Raccoon Repellents

Using homemade recipes is a natural but not-inexpensive method to get rid of raccoons. There are two categories of repellents you can make or use: taste repellents, and odor repellents. Taste repellents use strong and offensive flavors, such as cayenne pepper, to deter a raccoon’s interest. Odor repellents use strong and offensive smells, such as ammonia.

Taste Repellents

One homemade “taste” raccoon repellent recipe uses 1 bottle hot pepper sauce or 1 bottle cayenne pepper powder and mixes it with a gallon of water and a teaspoon of dishwashing liquid. The soap helps the liquid to adhere to what you’re spraying, and should be sprayed on the entire area that you would like to protect. The cost to gather the ingredients for this and other homemade recipes can range from $9 to $20 for a single application.

Homemade recipes can seem like a cost-effective way to get rid of raccoons at first, however because they are easily washed away with rainfall (Central PA gets an average of 130 days of rainfall each year), you need to apply the product fairly often, which leads to greater expense and effort to get rid of raccoons in the long run. Also, hot peppers and soap are nose, mouth and eye irritants in animals, children, and adults, should they come into contact with the sprayed area. Cost of Application: With 100+ reapplications per year the cost for a single year can be greater than $300.

Effectiveness for Getting Rid of Raccoons: Fair

Odor Repellents

A raccoon is very sensitive to smell so it’s natural to try using strong odors as a way to keep them out of gardens and under patios. Household products can be used as a repellent such as, ammonia and mothballs, however these products need to constantly be replaced, are harmful when they come into contact with mucus membranes, and mothballs are purported to be toxic. Professional trappers report that intelligent raccoons are more likely to remove an offending odor, or cover it up than to vacate the premises. Cost of Application: Continuous ($150/year or more)

Effectiveness for Getting Rid of Raccoons: Negligible

Electronic Repellents

Sprinklers are another method to deter raccoons because they really dislike being around water. Running your sprinklers at different times during the day to get rid of raccoons will work, but since we’re living in a time where water is becoming more precious every day, this solution can be wasteful and expensive. Many parts of the United States will no longer allow sprinklers to be run every day so taking this route is not environmentally friendly or cost effective. There are products on the market specifically designed to conserve water while providing effective deterrents for raccoons.

Motion Activated Sprinklers can be purchased for $50 to $180 depending on the product. These sprinklers are only activated when they sense something approaching. The device then emits a mist of water and a noise to accompany the water and effectively frightens the raccoon away from your yard. Cost of Units: $50-$90 PER UNIT Cost of Units: $50-$90 PER UNIT

Cost of water additional Cost of batteries additional; some units are solar powered, which is more cost effective. Effectiveness for Getting Rid of Raccoons: Good (depending on brand)

Cayenne Pepper Spray to Protect Your Garden

Raccoons are chicken predators and they wreak havoc in vegetable gardens. Dealing with a raccoon infestation can be a very frustrating situation!

Cayenne pepper is one of the natural raccoon deterrents and a great way to repel critters and pests. These pesky rodents hate the smell of this homemade raccoon repellent.

It makes it an effective ingredient then, in homemade animal repellent sprays.

What you’ll need:

  • A small canister of cayenne pepper
  • 1 bottle of hot sauce
  • 1 gallon of water

Instructions:

  • Add 1 small canister of cayenne pepper and 1 bottle of hot sauce to 1 gallon of water
  • Spray the solution all over your garden plants, bushes, and shrubs
  • Reapply after rainfall.

How do you make sure that raccoons get out and actually stay out?

You must determine the animals’ entry point. Typically, raccoons get in through the eaves of the roof or in openings at the foundation level. Once you’ve located the access point, the next step is to make your home inhospitable. Raccoons enjoy the dark, so a strategically placed flashlight can be a deterrent.

Because they’re also put off by strange noises, playing a small radio may help keep them at bay. Finally, raccoons hate the smell of ammonia, so leave a saucer full of the stuff (or an ammonia-dipped rag) near the creatures’ entry point. Within 48 hours, thanks to one or all of the above tricks, the raccoons are likely to vacate the premises.

Once you’re certain your visitors have left the building, the final step is to seal up the access points so as to prevent return. In future weeks and months, periodically walk your home’s perimeter to check for signs of a pest presence. Likewise, remain vigilant about securing trash bags and cleaning up after outdoor meals.

Signs Of Raccoons Living On Your Property

These are some of the common signs of raccoons either living somewhere on your property or making a habit of scavenging around your property for food:

  • Trash from garbage bins strewn around your driveway or yard.
  • Garbage or recycling bins with bite or scratch marks around the lids.
  • Garden beds with homegrown fruits and vegetables that are damaged and eaten shortly before harvest.
  • Raccoon tracks around your yard or other areas of your property. The shape of their prints is similar to that of a small human hand, just two to three inches long, with sharp, pointed claws at the tips of each finger.
  • Holes in your lawn or portions of grass that have been torn or dug up (although this could be evidence of skunks or some other type of nuisance animal).
  • Scratching or bumping sounds coming from inside the walls, ceiling or some other area of your home, attic or garage; this could indicate the presence of raccoons or some other rodent or wild animal that has built a den.

Getting Rid Of Possums In Your Roof

CHOOSING THE BEST METHODS FOR CONTROLLING POSSUMS AND OTHER PESTS

Choosing the best methods to control possums, rats, ferrets, stoats and feral cats has been made easier with the production of a publicly available internet–based Decision Support System or ´DSSD

Researchers at Landcare Research developed the application primarily for local authority pest managers, but it is also applicable to anyone needing to control mammal pests.

“Pest control has become quite complex over the last 10 years with new legislation and regulations, new pest control products, increasing public interest in conservation and pest problems, and increasing privatisation of the pest control industry,” researcher Dr Dave Morgan says.

“Local authorities are also under increasing accountability to rate-payers and all of this led to the idea of developing a system that would help people select the most appropriate control methods by a transparent, objective process.”

The DSS was designed by identifying the ‘generic’ questions that arise when pest managers are thinking about what control methods to use. Because the questions require ‘yes/no’ responses, the system is easy to use and unambiguous. The questions are focussed around the key issues of: legislation, operational aims, land tenure, farming practice, public and environmental safety, community views and involvement, and landowner views.

By considering these factors in a logical and systematic way, a number of options are presented. These are further narrowed down by establishing what control methods have been used previously because frequently repeated use of most methods results in declining effectiveness. Finally, recommended options are made on the basis of the likely cost of the remaining suggested methods.

Tips to Control the Possum Population Around Your Home

For every gardener or personal garden-loving home-owner in Melbourne, possums are those animals that represent nightmares. Even if you aren’t someone especially inclining towards grooming a garden you’re bound to be wary of having a possum infestation. They are creatures of the night that can be difficult to outsmart and can easily cause damage to your property.

And by property, I mean within your home, outside of it and of course your rations as well. Their control and removal is not easy thanks to their nocturnal habits and rapid movements, oh and not forgetting that they can quickly scurry off to a place you probably can’t even physically get into

This is exactly why the pest control industry offers treatment to prevent their infestation from going rogue and causing you great damage and loss. The biggest hook to any possum community, no matter where you are located in Melbourne, is food.

Where are they coming from? And why are they in my home?

Oh well, to give you a history as to why possums have become a growing pest and resulted in infestations of full areas, let’s talk about their habitat. Possums are actually meant to live out there in the wild. Previously there were a considerable number of Eucalyptus trees, however, several of them have been replaced by deciduous tress. This replacement has resulted in depletion in the population of the only known predator of possums – owls.

Can I just trap or kill Possums as a measure of control or removal?

Absolutely not! Unless getting jailed is one of the things to do on your bucket-list. They are a protected species in Melbourne. That means no matter how much of a nuisance they are or how badly you hates these pests, you’ve got to be wiser in this situation.

How to monitor possums

How often to monitor

Use your goal and management objectives to inform monitoring frequency:

If you only want pest data at critical times, you could monitor during bird breeding seasons or before and after control operations.

For ongoing studies, monitor four times per year: February, May, August and November.

For a clearer picture of fluctuations across the year, monitor once per month or every two months.

Pick representative habitat

Choose places that represent the range of environment types in your protection area. For example, if 50% of your area is beech forest, put 50% of your monitoring lines in beech forest.

Exclude bias

Don’t run lines along places that would introduce bias, such as trap/bait lines, roads, ridgelines and streams. The best way to avoid bias in your monitoring lines is to randomise the direction each one runs. Roll a six-sided die and look up the number below. Run the line in the most practicable of the two bearings given.

Plot on a map or with software

Plot your line locations before you head out, and consider practicality of access when picking a line’s starting point. Mark your locations on a map and store them in a portable GPS device if possible

Prepare devices

Choose between wax tags and chew cards. Both rely on bite mark identification for successful monitoring of animals.

Choose traps and toxins

When to use toxins instead of traps

If there are higher pest densities at your site, trapping will be labour intensive and inefficient unless the traps are self-resetting. Toxins are often a better choice in such circumstances.

Your local pest populations can become trap shy or poison shy if you stick to the same control method for a long time. Changing the tool can help you reach more targets.

New trap guidance

Any traps listed below as ‘new’ have passed NAWAC testing guideline for humane trapping. However, there is limited data on their efficacy in the field. Contact manufacturers for information on performance.

DOC-200 trap (and DOC-250, DOC-150)

Kill targets: stoats and rats

Best for: stoat control

Pros: long service life; proven effective; humane

Cons: large and heavy

Lure

For stoats: meat (Connovation Erayze, rabbit, salted rabbit); eggs (less attractive but longer lasting)

For rats: peanut butter (Connovation Ferafeed, peanut butter mixed with rolled oats); other nut-based or chocolate lures

A24 trap

Kill targets: stoats and rats

Best for: controlling rats when trapping is the preferred control option

Pros: labour saving; good instructions and support; humane

Cons: higher ongoing costs (lure and canisters); long-life stoat lure is still in development

Lure

For rats: Goodnature Rat Lure

For stoats: Goodnature Stoat Lure; Connovation Erayze

Possum Pest Control

Possums are pests. They eat your pet’s food, they crawl into your shed or under your deck or in your attic, and they live there and poop there and make a stink there. They scavange your garbage, and they are common city animals. Heck, lots of people just don’t like the way they look. So if you want to get rid of them, I understand. I personally wouldn’t mind living with an opossum outside, but if they’re living in the attic or walls of your house or something, the problem must be addressed.

HOWEVER – You definitely don’t want to hire a regular pest control company for opossum removal. Pest control guys traditionally take care of insects. They spray poison to get rid of them. It doesn’t work that way for opossums

Possum Spray – No such thing, unfortunately. If there were, then your regular pest control company or exterminator could take care of the problem. But we’re not here to exterminate opossums, we just want to solve the problem, which in most cases, involves trapping the animal in a cage trap, and relocating it far away from your property.

Here are some photos of proper opossum trapping. Notice that we’re not doing possum extermination. These animals are live trapped and moved elsewhere. If the animals are outside, it’s not such a difficult job. Opossums are the easiest to trap without worry of any animal that I deal with – that’s not to say that it’s a cinch. Most beginners that I see try it mess up in a variety of ways. And if you’ve got possums living inside the house, such as in the walls or basement or attic, then you definitely have a challenging case on your hands, one that I believe requires the hiring of a professional – just make sure it’s a wildlife control specialist, like the ones on my directory, and not your usual insect-spraying pest control company.

If you are a pest control operator who works in the south and traps armadillos, prepare to catch a whole lot of incidental opossums. Most trappers are used to opossums wandering into raccoon sets, as their diets are similar – they’ll eat almost anything. However, it also seems that opossums are either curious or, like the armadillo, easily directed into unbaited traps. When I set traps for armadillos, I set cage traps without bait. Armadillos dig for their food, and despite rumors, there is no known effective bait. Believe me, I’ve tried, and extensive research amongst good dillo trappers supports me. You can catch all the dillos you want by merely knowing where they will walk, and directing them into cages through use of barriers. However, get ready to catch quite a few opossums along the way. Opossums, like many animals including the armadillo, like to travel along edges. Thus, the same sets that cross an armadillos’ path will also cross an opossums’. However, the opossum lacks the caution most animals display, and they walk right into armadillo traps with annoying frequency. I also believe that some opossums might enter these empty cage traps because they detect residual smells of past baits or animals, but I’ve caught opossums in brand-new out of the box cage traps.

Prevention Is Key To Rodent Control

Rodent Proofing vs. Extermination

If you’ve had issues with a rodent infestation in your home, you may have noticed that rodent control companies have two very distinct ways of dealing with your rodent issue. Many traditional pest control companies emphasize extermination services, while other companies may offer “rodent proofing” services. Understanding the difference between these two types of rodent control services is crucial to selecting a rodent control company that meets your needs and will solve your rat problem for good.

Extermination Means Poison And Traps.

When a pest control company talks about extermination services they are talking about poison and traps. Simply put, the goal of extermination is to kill off the active rat population in your home using rodent traps and rat poison. Unfortunately, although this sounds like it would be the easiest solution, extermination comes with a long list of cons, including:

  • Time Consuming – Extermination is not a “quick fix” for your rodent problem. It can take several days and multiple doses of poison to kill a rat.
  • Dangerous For Children And Pets – Leaving poison or active traps around your home can be hazardous, especially to small children and pets. If you are opting to hire an exterminator be sure you know what chemicals will be used in your home and where so that you can set up the proper precautions to keep your children and pets safe.
  • Unsanitary – Poisoned rats can die in the walls of your home, leaving you rotting animal carcasses in your attic and crawlspaces. These decaying bodies can cause foul odors and provide a breeding ground for bacteria and disease.
  • A Temporary Solution – Rats breed quickly. Trapping and poisoning rats might kill-off some of the current infestation, but it does nothing to protect your home from future infestation. This makes trapping and poisoning rodents a full-time, never-ending job!

Rodent Proofing Is Permanent.

Rodent proofing a home is the only way to ensure that your home will be permanently protected from future rodent infestation. Best of all, rodent proofing can be done without any dangerous chemicals or traps. How does it work? The rodent proofing process is done in 3 phases:

  • Phase 1: Inspection – Every rodent proofing job will start with inspection of your attic for rodent entry access points. Rodent infestation is only possible when these holes and gaps are left unsealed.
  • Phase 2: Sealing – After identifying all possible rodent access points, these entry ways are sealed with professional grade sealant and steel mesh, denying access to new rodents and preventing infestation.
  • Phase 3: Cleanup – Once all the entry points are sealed your attic is cleaned, disinfected and deodorized.

What Is Rodent Exclusion?

When mice enter your home, you will do anything to evict these unwelcome house guests. Setting out dozens of mouse traps can be an effective way to catch a few of the invaders, but unfortunately mouse traps won’t fix your rodent problem. The best way to eliminate a mouse infestation in your home or business is through rodent exclusion. Rodent exclusion is the method used to reduce the conditions that may be attracting rodents to your property, therefore preventing future infestations from occurring.

The first step in rodent exclusion is to eliminate possible entry points for rodents. Rats are capable of entering your property through a hole the diameter of a quarter while mice are capable of wiggling through holes the diameter of a dime. It is necessary to carefully examine the exterior of your property (including attics and basements) to eliminate possible entry points. Check areas around where utility pipes come into the home as well as around windows and doors. When you have eliminated all possible entry holes, your property will no longer allow in nuisance rodents.

Next you must eliminate all food and water sources that may be feeding a rodent infestation. Make sure that all food in your cupboards is placed in heavy duty plastic containers with tight fitting lids; never leave food on your countertops and keep cupboards clean and dry. If you are finding mouse poop in your cupboards, there is a good chance that rodents are feasting on something in the cupboards, so very carefully examine all items stored there.

Finally it is important to remove all possible nesting areas for rodents. This is not entirely possible in most properties, because rodents will find their way into the walls, which can be almost impossible to prevent. But it is possible to prevent rodents from nesting in your storage boxes as well as in areas of clutter. Make sure that all your stored items are in heavy duty plastic containers with tight fitting lids and eliminate piles of clutter to make your property less attractive to rodents.

What causes rodent infestation?

If you own a home, there is always a possibility that it may be at risk for a rat or mice infestation. Any type of rodent infestation can easily turn into an expensive ordeal if not handled properly. Worse, your family’s health will be put at risk by exposing them to a variety of contagious diseases and parasites. 

The reality is that everyone is at risk for a rodent infestation no matter how new your home may be. Here are four reasons that you may be experiencing a rodent problem:

Poor Sanitation

One possible reason for an infestation could be a result of poor sanitation. Along with health concerns and other problems, poor sanitation can lead to a situation where rats and mice have easy access to food and water sources, encouraging them to move in and create a nest in your home.

Rats and mice are generally associated with unhygienic spaces, which rings true if there are bits of garbage scattered throughout the house. These rodents are scavengers and will invade any home in search of food and a safe place to raise young, and if your home isn’t clean, it will satisfy both criteria and be at risk for infestation.

Bird feeders and other types of food items that leave residue also attract rats and mice. Likewise, the nuts and fruits that fall from trees can also attract rats and mice to your home. 

Rodents are also attracted to water sources. If you have a pet with a water bowl outside or an outdoor pool, you may want to eliminate those water sources by covering your pool, or moving your water bowls inside.

Seeking Shelter Within the Home

Rats and mice are constantly seeking out shelter that can act as a potential nesting site for their young. Outside the home, leaf piles, deep mulch, and any other type of debris pile can act as a safe nesting site for a colony. From there, the rodents will then chew through the siding of the home and get inside.

When looking for a secure place from predators, rats and mice can both squeeze into incredibly small spaces to gain entry. Rats can fit in unsealed cracks or holes the size of a quarter and mice can squeeze through spaces as small as a dime. 

Since mice can fit into small spaces, any gaps in windows, ceilings, plumbing lines, gas lines, or sewer lines also leave your home vulnerable to an invasion in addition to the other health concerns. Rats are also capable of gnawing through wood, so any old homes with wooden interiors may be more susceptible to unwanted houseguests than newer homes.

Identify  Rodent Infestations

You may never see a mouse or rat unless an infestation is severe. Look for signs of rat or mouse infestation:

  • Rodent droppings around food packages, in drawers or cupboards, and under the sink.
  • Nesting material such as shredded paper, fabric, or dried plant matter. 
  • Signs of chewing on food packaging.
  • Holes chewed through walls and floors that create entry points into the home.
  • Stale smells coming from hidden areas.

Prevent rodent infestations

The best way to prevent a rodent infestation and contact with rodents is to remove the food sources, water, and items that provide shelter for rodents.

  • Seal up

Seal up holes inside and outside the home to prevent entry by rodents.

  • Trap up

Trap rodents around the home to help reduce the rodent population

  • Clean Up

Avoid illness: Take precautions before and while cleaning rodent-infested areas.